Monday, November 9, 2009

Porthtowan to Gwithian (Oct 8th)

Our routine on a walking day saw Tim up and about first just before 7am. We made our own breakfasts, usually a porridge of some sort and toast maybe, then packed some lunch things which we may have bought the day before, if not, we'd pick them up from the shop at the bus stop.

My usual rations were; a pack of ready salted crisps, an apple, a banana, 'exotic' dried fruit (apricot, coconut,papaya etc),a lump of cheese, rye crackers, and some form of chocolate! Also, about one and a half litres of water in a platypus.

I found these provisions ideal, and spread out through th day kept me going very well. I'd usually have something at about 11am, then pick at things through the day. Sometimes we had a proper stop for lunch, other times we wanted to keep moving - we seemed to agree about these quite naturally (or perhaps Tim just gave in - you'll have to ask him...).


Perran
We caught the 8.13 bus to Perran, it was still and quiet, high tide and just beautiful. We then caught the bus to Porthtowan and were dropped at the Turn, and walked down to the beach.

As we reached the top of the cliff path we started chatting to a chap who was looking at the surf, he told us about a mother and baby seal in the next bay. We were so glad he told us about them or we would've missed them, the cliffs were a woderful red, and very shaly, but we spotted the pair on the beach below.



Mother and baby seal

Looking back up the coast we could see St Agnes beacon, but the beach we'd walked on to Porthtowan had disappeared under the high tide.


View back up coast to Porthtowan and St Agnes Beacon
The weather was glorious once again. The path only had a couple of descents, this one was Sally's Bottom, and stunning it was too!



Sally's Bottom
I had never walked this part before, around the edge of Nancekuke which is still protected by high, barbed wire fences etc.Portreath has a lovely little harbour within a harbour and shows signs of lots of new development.

Portreath, the bath in the rocks
We walked across the beach to see the bath cut into the rock by The Bassets - the lords of the manor. Apparently there are 6, but we only saw this one.
Portreath sea-water bath

It was generally easy walking from here, along the tops of the cliff towards Hell's Mouth.
This particular part reminded me of a less touristy version of Bedruthan Steps.

North Cliffs

We stopped at the cafe at Hell's Mouth for coffee, and then headed on towards Godrevy lighthouse. The path along this part is well trodden, and paved in part. As we neared Godrevy we could see lots of people standing along one stretch of cliff.

This is a real headland and could see into the Hayle estuary, Carbis Bay and St Ives beyond.


Carbis Bay

Cameron Estate to Porthtowan (Oct 5th)


We decided to leave the Holywell-Perran bit for the very end, Bridgie has been keen to come and walk with us, so we may complete the rest of the walk, then have a celebratory stroll with anyone who wants to join us... and that includes you :-), on what will be the final section!

We parked up on Cameron Estate, and had a gentle walk down to Chapel Porth where we enjoyed a Hedgehog! :-) This delightful creation is extremely good for the soul, though a little less good for the body. Bear in mind that I'm not really an ice-cream person, but this is really something. I had to persuade Tim to have one as well, but he seemed glad to have succumbed! (It was actually he that introduced them to us a few years ago!) Cornish Ice Cream is covered in clotted cream and rolled in hazlenuts...




A hedgehog!


I'd started eating it then suddenly thought I must get a picture of it, which was quite some achievement in the circumstances!

Suitably sustained, and as the tide was out we walked back along the beach exploring under the cliff we'd walked down, to see if we could get into the cave that joins with the mine shafts up above, but the cavern was protected by a huge deep pool of water; that will have to wait for a summer /swimwear expedition!

So we turned westwards again and walked across the wide expanse of beach,



Looking back towards Chapel Porth

as far as Porthtowan. It was a lovely gentle walk with lots of people out enjoying the warm sunshine.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

An aside (Sept 29)

After these three days walking we had a rest day, I certainly needed it! I hadn't done any walking preparation this time so it took me a while to get into the swing, Tim had been doing regular walks so was on better form than me, and, no, Big A, we did not walk through the delights of Newquay itself! We're doing the walk.. but we're not daft! We have granted ourselves a Cornish Walker's Poetic Licence! :-)

The day at home gave us time to plan the next bit; the weather in Cornwall had been dry and fine for weeks on end, and the forecast for us was good weather over the next few days, then rain - so we decided to continue the walk out of order. We knew that certain part of the coast path are particularly difficult when it is wet underfoot, so we decided to tackle those bits next, and fill in the gaps afterwards. Basically, we jumped on to do the St Ives/Penzance section, then back for some more local areas, then the Lizard area.

This would be very confusing for you to follow, especially on the Lizard/Falmouth section, so I shall write it in coastline order! I'll put in the dates though just for the record!

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Newquay to Holywell (Sept 28)



Crantock Pound


We decided to do less the next day so after doing some essential washing, we caught the bus into Crantock where I was fascinated by the Pound.


This is a circular, stone-walled enclosure, right in the middle of the village and was used to keep stray animals safe. We then walked down to Penpol, this is Tim's favoured route into Newquay as there is a footway across The Gannel at low tide.




The Gannel Info
It is very pretty here; it reminded me of the walk from St Clements to Tresillian along the river.

Ferry Crossing at The Gannel

We then walked across Crantock Beach, up the steep dunes and out on to the headland. This is Tim's own territory and it was nice to be walking around his special places.

Crantock Beach

This was one of Mum's special places too.


Butterfly
We were accompanied by this butterfly (is it a Speckled Wood?) on the path to Polly Joke, it kept us company for some way!

Polly Joke

The sand in the coves at Polly Joke were at different levels which played tricks with your eyes! We then went out on to Kelsey Head where Tim had watched the eclipse of the sun in 1999.

Kelsey Head looking south

The view south stretches down St Ives,


Kelsey Head looking north

and north up to Trevose, a wonderful view point - I felt as if I was safe encompassed in the arms of those two distant headlands.

Holywell Bay

We then walked on to Holywell, across the beach and back up the Ellenglaze valley to Tim's. I found this last part very hard and a real struggle up the hill. I was very glad to get back and rest some rather weary legs - but it had been a particularly special walk.


.. and so to Newquay (Sept 27)

Watergate Bay

Watergate Bay was beautiful, and I loved this rock at Whipsiderry Beach - Black Humphrey Rock or Flory Island.
Flory Island
Looks like a massive dog, dinosaur or such like to me, with its back to us and head turned to the right. (I blame my age!!!)




By this time I was feeling very tired, and we hastenend across Porth Beach, passed Lusty Glaze where a youngster had just crossed the beach on a zip wire - you can see him hanging in the middle - and on to the bus home.
Lusty Glaze
As we arrived at the bus stop we could see Gig racing in the bay, and saw a report on it on the TV during the following week.
Gig Racing from Lusty Glaze
You can see them in the pic, but not well focused. We'd walked about 13 miles altogether, along wonderful cliffs, but never far from habitation and often on gravel paths. We were findng it easier just carrying essentials for the day and continued like that using Tim's as a base and using the bus or car to get us places.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Constantine to Newquay (Sept 27)


I'm going to test your resolve... I hope you're keeping up! The next morning saw us heading out at about the same time to catch the bus to Newquay and then another to Constantine Bay. We were blessed with glorious sunshine and retrod our path to the beach, and then onwards around the cliffs to Treyarnon Bay.



Hatless Tim!

Fox Cove
Beyond Teyarnon the cliffs were sheer, and showed signs of massive erosion. Looking down over one particular edge I spotted a lovely pile of stones - reminiscent of the work of Andy Goldsworthy. If you,ve not come across him, he's worth checking out. Hopefully you can see the stones if you click on the picture :-)



Warren Cove

From here the coastline was showing the colours and shapes of yesterday, we were constantly delighted by how beautiful it was and how fortunate we were to be able enjoy it all.


Portcothan

We bought pasties at Porthcothan, and Tim a hat as he'd left his at home.

The cliffs at times, showed signs of smuggling... or so it said, with caves and steps cut into the cliffs. Trescore islands
We walked on to Park Head where there are the remains of a cliff castle but also signs of cliff collapse. From here the path takes you to Bedruthan Steps, which despite being a tourist honeypot, is stunningly beautiful.


Bedruthan Steps

The path took us on to Mawgan Porth...

Mawgan Porth

... and beyond to Beacon cove and Watergate Bay. by this time I was definitely beginning to tire... and it's time for my tea so kitchen here I come!

:-)

Padstow to Constantine Bay (Sept 26)

I thought Trevone was a lovely little place; such a contrast with the two beaches,
Trevone
one gorgeous sand, and the other great rocks for rockpooling!
Trevone Bay and Roundhole Point
The collapsed cavern on the headland was visible from a long way away - Tim thought I'd been there before but I have no memory of it - but that doesn't mean a lot!

The sun was well and truly out by the time we crossed Harlyn Bay, watching surfers and canoeists - it was beautiful.


Mother Ivey's Bay was gorgeous

Mother Ivey's Bay
with views out towards the new lifeboat station, which was very impressive. We walked out onto the headland above the lifeboat station and could see up the coast to Tintagel.
View from Cataclews Point
Trevose Head has a very pretty lighthouse,

Trevose Lighthouse

we could have visited many on our journey... next time, maybe! We ended the day at Constantine Bay Constantine Bay with Trevose Head

walking back up to the village to the bus stop to await our chariot ride home. It had been a day of beautiful colours, from turquoise to dark blue, with sparkling seas and an abundance of wild flowers and butterflies. I decided the plants must think it was spring as pink campions and yellow snapdragons were out. About 11 miles altogether which we decided was plenty for that day!

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Part Two begins... Padstow-Falmouth! (Sept 26)


Sorry!
I got all excited about resuming the blog... then went down to Wales again for a few days! Back now and ready to post!!! I hope you're ready for lots of pics... several are from my phone camera but the quality seems pretty good, all things considered :-)

Saturday 26th Sept saw us leaving the house at 7.15 am for the bus stop. A bus into Newquay was followed by another to Padstow, and the resumption of The Walk.



Padstow Harbour


The harbour at Padstow is very pretty, but we whisked our way through and on to the paved pathway out of town!

Popular pathway out of town!

It was a cloudy start to the day but the sun peeped through.



Looking back up river towards Padstow



There are some pretty beaches like Harbour Cove,




and I loved these cottages at Hawker's Cove.






We rounded Stepper Point and passed Butter Hole where the whole headland seems rather fragile, and there are glimpses back toward the Camel Estuary.

Near Butter Hole



As we walked down the coast the cliffs became more interesting,






showing marked slippage and erosion.
I was fascinated by the Round Hole near Trevone Bay...






It was amazing! Tim and I were rather surprised that there were not warning signs all over the place and envisioned the results of exuberant youth on a night time walk!!!

More soon...