Combe Martin to Woolacombe 15th Feb

What a beautiful day this was - for me it was the best so far, walking in completely new places. We set off just after 9, we had got into a routine with breakfast at about 8 each morning, and setting off around 9-ish!

We spotted fulmars in this bay for Alastair and Jean;



We passed this beautiful creek;

the tide was in so we had to walk on the road, but if you look carefully you can just see the footpath sign!

I loved the harbour master's office :-)



These guys were out training and seemed to have more than enough energy to move rapidly over the sea, the water was quite still, with just a gentle swell.

We arrived in Ilfracombe at about 12.30 and bought pasties from another lovely home-cooking cafe. Tim climbed to the top of Capstone, but I rested my legs for a few minutes! From here on it was all new to me, and so beautiful.

By the time we descended into another place called Lee we were feeling tired, (the descents always proved difficult - especially if on a road!) and in retrospect, it would have been far enough for that day. But onwards we went because of our B&B booking and walked the most beautiful coast path. This is an area I want to revisit and explore properly.

Just as we walked this part Tim jarred his knee, twisting it. It was very painful initially, but eased as he went on; it made me wonder if we would be able to reach Morte Point or perhaps we should miss this part of the walk. As I was scrambling up a steep incline my phone rang, and it was Jan, our next B&B host, and she offered to come and pick us up if we needed it, from wherever we got to. This was fantastic and it meant the we actually managed the whole walk because we knew we could stop if necessary.

Morte Point

Morte Point was fascinating, and must be amazing in a big sea, you could see the currents fighting with each other even when it was so calm. We were so pleased to reach Woolacombe and spotted hang gliders over the dunes.

This was such a beautiful, beautiful day, but rewarded with agony! At times, as I was walking, I would say to myself "You're not in pain, you're just tired!" which was true, but the pain came later. It was hard to sleep, and we decided next day we would have a proper rest day. Tim did his washing and we stayed around the B&B, and in my case slept during the day. This is a learning process, and it's about distance, and weight of pack and enjoyment. This walk was wonderful but too far, and we need to be more realistic about what we tackle.

Combe Martin 14th Feb

As we walked down into Combe Martin, I said to Tim "I could do with a good cup of tea, and a toasted teacake!" and what should appear before us...... ...the Harbour Deli, run by Julie, here with her sister and Lizzie, her sister's daughter. Lizzie happily took my camera (thanks Bridgie-it's been greatly admired!) and took lots of pics.

The tea and teacake were perfect - I was eyeing up a fab sandwich for the following day - but had forgotten which day of the week it was - and it was closed on Sunday. I made do with a lovely cherry shortcake instead.

You can just see them - top left! This place is definitely on my return visit list. Julie does her own baking and it was superb.

From here we walked up and around the corner to our B&B Fontenay where we once again received a wonderful welcome in this lovely family home.

Sarah made us feel so welcome, as did all her family, and it is from this warm spot that Tim was able to write his blog entry.

Sarah is a gifted art and craft person, and the house was full of beautifully made little things, sayings inscribed in wood, baskets etc. We had a delicious evening meal at The Dolphin - I tucked into a lamb hotpot with a mean mustard mash, and Tim had a vegetable version- verdict - delicious and excellent value. Returning to Fontenay after dinner, Tim blogging and me playing the guitar with a wonderful little chap called Sam who is five years old. A delight!

Again, we asked advice before setting of next day - the verdict was that we could make it all the way to Woolacombe, so we decided to try!

Heddon's Mouth to Combe Martin 14th Feb

I'm going back a little... when your legs, hips, feet and particularly knees, ache, a bath is a wonderful thing! At lynmouth we stayed at the River Lyn View where Carol and Ray, (who also run a taxi service), looked after us like family... the en suite bath was a godsend. It, and a wonderful comfy bed, helped the aching limbs. Talking with Ray and Carol, and with Yolande and Steve over our evening meal, we decided to split the trip to Combe Martin into two and Ray collected us at Heddon's Mouth on Friday,(Tim's written about that section), and then he dropped us off there again next morning for us to continue our walk. We saw three red deer on the way, we had seen one the day before, so counted ourselves lucky. We set off after another lovely breakfast,

Carol and Tim

and faced the prospect of tackling Great Hangman. This is, (Tim will correct me!), the highest point on the walk and was the main reason for splitting the section into two.

Great Hangman

In fact, the climb up it was fairly gentle once we had cracked the first part... which was steep!

Tim decided to risk the stones of the cairn... (he tells me this is his better side)

... I decided discretion was the better part etc, and concentrated on the view! (I don't have a better side!)

Looking back

We then headed down past Little Hangman to Combe Martin where we discovered a wonderful, and I do mean wonderful coffee shop!

home!

Watch this space... stage one is complete and we got as far as Hartland Quay. We'll write in detail and add pics etc, but just having a rest day today. Our final walk to Hartland was wonderful and we decided to stop on a high. We thought we'd review what we were carrying etc before we continued. I have lots of lovely pics to share, and I'm hoping Tim will make guest writer appearances as well. So... rest time now but I'll blog properly soon - here's a wondeful sunset to keep you going!!

Lynmouth to Heddon Valley 13th Feb

Hi , its Tim at the controls this time so take me gently!

Last evening Maslow's hierarchy of needs kicked in and we felt a quest for subantial healthy food was on. One hundred yards down the road was a bistro where Yolande and Steve were open for the first night of the season.

Yolande is Dutch and met Steve when he worked in Holland. A nice connection for me as I have some Dutch friends. Ruth and I opted for the vegetarian option and I sample the local Exmoor brew, "an excellent choice if I might say so".

Meanwhile back to the plot: Friday morning finds us in Lynton Harbour where we are startled by the rise and fall of the sea even an hour after high tide and there is a sturdy harbour wall.

Only council staff and delivery vans seem to be about at 9.30 a.m. as we head to The Valley of the Rocks ( other websites are available)....where we saw the goats. No, I am not kidding.

After a brief march on roads, a short cut through a copse soon has me bewildered as to our destination.

Steady walking in cool conditions and rising all the time eventually brings us to the dramatic Heddon's Mouth with its treacherous rocks and former harbour. The keen-eyed industrial archaeologists out there will recognise the lime kilns on the shoreline. Lime and coal was imported from Wales across the Bristol Channel.

And its time to head inland to The Hunters Inn and a prearranged lift. I expect you could tell we were like unburdened characters from a Bunyan allegory today.

Porlock to Lynmouth 12th Feb

The path took us to tiny Colbone Church - the smallest functioning church in Britain, we think,

and on over and around more fallen trees.

This became more and more a problem as one section of the path passed through what were extensive swathes of rhododendron bushes - beautiful when in bloom... not so beautiful when they cross your path and there is no alternative except to crawl through - not just hands and knees but flat on tummy as there was no other way.

It made the route a real challenge and far more tiring. By the time we reached the Lighthouse near Lynmouth we were exhausted but still had 3 miles to go... it was a matter of headdown and plod.. it was extremely hard going and I reverted to texting to try and keep my mind off how difficult it was! By the time we walked /stumbled our way into Lynmouth we could hardly put one foot in front of the other! We found our B&B easily, and again received a wonderful welcome. Mind you the only way up the stairs was on hands and knees!

More as soon as I can get to the internet...

Minehead to Porlock 11th/12th Feb

Our first day walking was lovely, you can see from the pics what the weather was like,


we arrived fairly tired at Porlock after wandering through beautiful woods with many trees blocking the path - the result of all the recent snow,

and stunning views,

and amazing buildings.

There were streams running where streams don't usually and we had to cross several, improvising all the way.

When we rang the bell of the Sea View and had the most lovely welcome "That must be Ruth" came through the door, and we were welcomed into Gill and Tony's lovely home from home.We really felt part of the family and were so snug and comfy.

Next day, after a delicious breakfast where we sampled Gill's scrumptious homemade marmalades (the plum and greengage was my favourite!),

we set off for Porlock Weir and then round the coast to Lynmouth.

This is the beginning of this section of the path and it took us through glorious woods (many fallen trees blocking the path... you'll notice a theme!).

Minehead:The start! 10th/11th Feb

Time to catch up... this is the first opportunity to blog... i'll see how I get on but will probably tell the story in pictures... I cannot describe the aching legs!

Anyway, both Tim and I had rather delayed train journeys but we met up as planned at Taunton and then had a fun bus ride to Minehaed. We had our tea at the Market Cafe with Carole who was a very warm and caring host.

Then on to the Youth Hostel, about a two mile walk in the dark. We had a great breakfast next morning and were well set up for the beginning of the walk.

There is a wonderful statue at the start showing hands holding a map,

then we were off... just a couple of pics to show you how wonderful it was!

...sn-o-o-w on snow!

... in the bleak mid-winter... The road between Pavenham and Felmersham.

We've had yet more!!! I promise not to post any more snow pics...

... do you recognise this tree Jac?

Preparations are all done... hoping that the weather doesn't affect the trains taking me down to Taunton... I'll try and blog on The Walk... but it may not be for a while!

...snow on snow

Woke to this, this morning... although it may not stay so long this time.

Just for Jac!

Your wish...

and more...

Snow pics are so lovely... here are some more from today's walk;

the weather was absolutely glorious - I set out at 8.30 and walked to Odell, then around Harrold Country Park.

I chuckled at the "no swimming" sign!

Then I walked across the River meadows and they were stunning.

The River Meadows

I walked about 11 miles today (about 10 yesterday) but having a rest day tomorrow, hoping to bake a cake!

This is a deserted barn with an amazing view!