Thursday, February 25, 2010

Marazion to Porthleven (Oct 10th)

St Michael's Mount

Saturday morning we drove to Marazion and parked overlooking Mount's Bay where the tide was in. As we had walked my favourite places already I wasn't expecting much today but it was a real surprise.

We walked through Marazion and out onto the low cliffs. There were stunning views, being able to see the steep southern side of St Michael's Mount and then on across Mount's Bay towards Newlyn and beyond.

There had been a heavy dew and earlier rainshowers and the plants were glistening with water droplets.


This pic doesn't really capture it but the fronds were covered with gems :-)

One of the lovely little surprises was rounding a corner and finding a superb little beach, with a lovely swell rolling in and numerous surfers riding the waves.

Perran Sands

I hadn't realised there were two Perran Sands (maybe there are more?) but this little beach by Perranuthnoe was a treasure and the waves perfect!

From here we walked out towards Cudden Point, by now the sun was warm and it was a beautiful day. This was like walking around a miniature version of Land's End, so pretty but with a touch of wildness about it.

Looking towards Cudden Point.

Cudden Point

Looking back at Cudden Point

Piskies Cove

From Cudden Point we passed Bessy's Cove also known as Prussia Cove, renowned for its smuggling. Bessy used to run a kiddlywink selling 'duty free' liquor!

Beyond that, another surprise...

...this is Porth En Alls which is a base for masterclasses of the International Musicians' Seminar. Apparently they give concerts in local churches. An amazing place perched right on the edge of the cliff by Kenneggy Sands which is only accessible via a vertical ladder, and visible from some distance away.

What a lovely walk we were having! We were in need of refreshment by this time and found another perfect stopping place. Sydney Cove is the western end of Praa Sands and here sits a wonderful cafe, clean and bright and welcoming...The Cove. Here, I had a fabulous bacon and egg bap, Tim a pot of tea and I ordered a piece of boiled fruit cake - asking them if they'd wrap up half of it for later,
I thought she'd forgotten when she brought me my plate as I had a huge piece awaiting me... and it was delicious. (And the other half was wrapped ready!!!)

From here we walked across the beach passing surfers and sunbathers,

and had been told by the lovely lady in the cafe to look out for the Meerkat...

...can you see him?

We also had wonderful glimpses of old tin mines which have been carefully restored,

and great rock strata!

The path was so pretty...

and guess what we found in a field to make Tim's day complete?

Yes! A pair of choughs. You can't really see their red beaks and legs but they were there, and very excited we were too.

Just before reaching Porthleven there is a famous lump of rock on the beach below the cliff - a garnet-gneiss erratic, quite different from all the other rocks in Cornwall, but similar to rocks in Greenland.

The erratic

From here it wasn't far to Porthleven

which has a tight inner harbour.

We wandered around the shops and sat in the warm sunshine along with many others. We caught the bus back to Marazion.

The tide was now out and St Michael's Mount looked quite different.

It had been an unexpectedly delightful day.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Porthcurno to Penzance (Oct3rd)

This is a bit of an epic blog, but hopefully you'll enjoy sharing this section of the walk with me. We set off early the next morning through the narrow streets of Penzance,

and caught the bus back to Porthcurno - starting our walk about 10.15. Legs were feeling a bit tired after yesterday's long walk so today was a bit harder. This walk, however, includes my favourite place on this earth of ours.

Along Treen Cliff, between Porthcurno and Treryn Dinas (where Logan Rock is perched) I always feel as though I've come home. It probably sounds quite odd, but I feel a real connection with this place, though I'm not quite sure why.


I'm not a particularly spritual person, but if you needed to find my spirit, it would probably be here!

Looking back towards Portcurno and the Minack Theatre is also stunning.

The granite rocks create such wonderful colours both in beach and cliff, and they have a warmth and rough smoothness (if that makes sense!) that I love.

I tear myself away from here and the path winds on over granite moorland to Penberth Cove which is so pretty.

Our guide book says that it is much painted and photographed because of its unspoilt nature, a 19th century capstan, cottages and boats, I'll let you decide...

Penberth Cove

The Capstan

After Penberth cove we walked along the cliff top and spotted this wonderful little garden plot...

...clearly sheltered and warm, an ideal spot for cultivation :-) From here we descended into Porthguarnon which was probably how Penberth was before the settlement arrived. Our path had not had too many ascents and descents but this was quite a strenuous one for tired legs!


You can see the path winding its way down to cove, it was a fairly steep climb back up through the dry bracken.

This little section clearly has a special climate because we then came across St Loy - known as lush St Loy...

Here the path crossed a pebbly beach...

before returning to the cliff and on towards Lamorna Cove. This section was sometimes a scramble over, around and between the huge granite rocks. The colour of the sea here was amazing!

Mousehole with its wonderful little harbour came next,

it was possible to see through the narrow harbour entrance and glimpse St Michael's Mount!

The path now ran next to a cycle path for the run in to Newlyn, where we enjoyed the narrow streets and a beautiful rainbow.

We were very tired when we got back to the hostel, but a refreshing shower revived us enough to return to the Alverne one more time!

The food was wonderful again... here's my choc dessert,

and here are Sandra and her daughter Charlotte who looked after us so well, and we hope to see again soon... my mouth waters at the prospect!